Buddhism and Culture in Mt.Geumjeong, Busan

Beomeosa Temple Stay
Opening a door without a door

The experience of temples, is a kind of program designed to help ordinary people understand Korean Buddhism and the life of practicing monks. It also provides people with the opportunity to appreciate first-hand traditional culture. Nestling on the side of Mt. Geumjeongsan overlooking Busan is Beomeosa Buddhist temple. Surrounded by lush forest and bamboo groves, along with the fact that this is an active temple with monks still in residence.

Beomeosa (pronounced boe-moe-saw) is a sanctuary where one can find peace while looking out onto the foggy horizon; listen to the gentle striking of the wooden gongs by monks, while breathing in the incense. It is a chance to tune out any negative thoughts that may be ailing you and focus on the positive, through the art of meditation. A few of us foreigners from Yeosudong decided to experience the life of monks for 2 days – one can certainly see the appeal of sitting around this sort of place meditating with none of the distractions of modern life.

Zen Meditation (Chamseon)
Zen is known as “Seon” in Korean. Seon meditation is a way to find your true self. It is believed meditation leads us to enlightenment, thus ending all our sufferings. The world we live in, is known as a world of suffering. Buddhism believes that the only way to end the process of reincarnation from birth to death in this world of suffering is through meditation. Kanhwaseon, a way to seek enlightenment through hawdoo (a question) is the best known and popular mediation in Korea.
Chamseon is a form of meditation that allows a person to reflect on oneself.
There are two forms of this meditation:
– Jwaseon(坐禪) : a sitting-style meditation. We practiced Jwaseon style.
- Haengseon(行禪) : a walking-style meditation.

Our typical day started with waking at 3:30 AM (I thought monks practiced being one with nature, nature isn’t even awake at 3:30) and having 20 minutes to dress, brush teeth (I found some opted out of this.. not me, I always manage to brush, no matter how late I’m running behind), fold up bedding and try to look presentable for the day. I move slowly in the mornings as is, and I found I move really slow at 3:30 AM. Followed by morning ceremony. The ceremony involved watching the monks sound 3 types of gongs. Even though it was cold and early, it was beautiful to hear and very impressive. Breakfast was next on the agenda. Refer to “Meal Service” below for more details. After having breakfast, we meditated in order to attain a tranquil mind. We meditated for 1 hour 30 minutes. (It’s going to take years of meditation before my mind is anywhere near a tranquil state). In Korea, Koreans sleep on a thin mattress called Yo on the heated Ondol floor, they also eat sitting on the floor. Ondol is a very efficient heating system which keeps the room warm during the winter, and the stones keep the room cool during summer. The Ondol under-floor heating system has a history of more than 2,000 years. In the temple, the same heating system is used. So, at 6 AM we were sitting on floor cushions, meditating on heated floors. Can you guess how many of us caught some zzzzz’s? I definitely caught myself nodding off a few times, and before I knew it I hit dream state… my idea of a tranquil state. It’s a good thing I didn’t start drooling, snoring or falling over because the head monk carries a wooden stick during meditation, and hits the shoulder of the person they catch sleeping. That’s not very tranquil?

Devotional Chanting at Yebul, Ceremonial Service (Yebul)
Yebul is a ceremonial service to praise Buddha. This solemn ceremonial service is held 3 times a day; in the morning, midday and evening helping to clear one’s mind. This basically consisted of making buddhist rosaries with 108 beads. This involved bowing 108 times to a gilded figure, in silence and at a very fast pace. Another basic ceremony, is tea ceremony. We drank hot tea while listening to the head monk explain traditional culture and meeting life’s challenges.

Communal Buddhist Meal Service (Balwoo-gong-yang)
Balwoo-gong-yang (Buddhist traditional meal with four bowls) is a unique and special way of eating in Korean temples. At this communal meal practice the meal is eaten in total silence, and not a single grain of rice is wasted. I’m serious, not even a drop of water is wasted! This was a very stressful time for me in particular, and for the other foreigners I spoke with. At first glance, I thought this experience would be a positive one. For example, we eat everything that we dish ourselves and don’t waste an ounce of food. Second, the monks do not eat animal products, the idea that the basic needs and rights of animals should be protected just as those of humans are. The spirit of purity and animal liberation, two positives. But during the meal, we are to eat quickly and silently, heads down and our bowls are to cover our mouths so our neighbor doesn’t see us eating. In America, we call that chewing with our mouths closed… what a concept! The difficulty comes from the need to gauge just how hungry we were and when we would eat our next meal. Also, if we dished ourselves too little we would be hungry and no outside food was aloud inside. Keep in mind that there isn’t the freedom of helping ourselves to a snack. I kept cookies in my backpack.. ssshhh.. I let myself off the hook since I shared with other hungry ladies. By the way, we are eating on the floor with legs crossed across from others and our backs practically touching the person behind us, so a fairly small space. As I’m sure many of you may know, eating with others, i.e., family and friends, is a time of gathering, community, festivities, and family hour. Perhaps it’s a time to recap your days or weeks ups and downs, what’s on the agenda for the upcoming weekend, or just sharing a meal. It sure beats eating alone. Although this is exactly what mealtime felt like… eating alone… no wait, it’s better alone, at least when I’m alone I can talk to myself and make some kind of noise. I’m just not cut out to be a monk. Perhaps in the next life…

Experiences during temple stay may become a turning point for some practitioners to return back to daily life with mindfulness and the ability of attaining their true selves, their path in life. This was not the case for me. I wish I felt more at peace and at ease with my life, my path, and what the future may hold. I’m positive that many of us wish to gain understanding and tranquility in only 2 days time span. Instead, I felt tired, hungry, and confused at this way of life. Buddhism is the path for many, but the lifestyle of the monk is so extreme from the rest of mankind. It is human nature, as psychology teaches, to have the desire and need to connect on an emotional, spiritual, and physical level with another person. For many of us, that involves the opposite sex. These are characteristics that all normal humans have in common; along with, compassion, altruism, and similar positive aspects. But monks do not marry, pair up or reproduce. If Buddhism is the way, then eventually humankind will become extinct. I was hoping to forget the world of complexity, frustrations, and confusion and enjoy a relaxing and beautiful natural way of life. Instead, we bowed 108 times and I walked away with the words of my acupuncturist in mind, “I advise against the temple stay. Your knee is not strong enough to endure climbing stairs, sitting cross legged for hours at a time, and bowing.” My response, “But I already paid W50,000 to gain enlightenment!”



The temple (above) where we bowed, meditated, made a Buddhist rosary, and where the girls slept.




The girls getting ready to sleep, on the thin mattresses above the heated flooring.. actually very comfortable. I fell asleep immediately.

Our fabulous matching outfits, to help us reach nirvana state of enlightenment.

A few of us with the head monks.




One of the Heavenly Kings standing guard (above) in a gate house through which all visitors must pass through to enter. The original 678 temple complex was burnt down by the Japanese in 1952. The 1613 reconstruction is showing its age in some places, but the rustic appeal also gives the temples their unique beauty.